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Let's Celebrate International Champagne Day 2020 

What does "Champagne" mean to you? Is it an elitist enclave with experts issuing proclamations about "terroir" and boring you with endless discussion of the best micro sites for growing the noble varieties of the region? Is it a historical view of the development of civilization, with the Roman influence dating back into early times? Is it the drink of choice for the rich &/or famous (Winston Churchill was a massive devotee after all), racing types spraying it everywhere, celebration of birthday/Christmas/special occasions of all kinds? Is it just big brand names and their renown in the international community?

Frankly, all of these and many more conceptions have more than an element of truth and also more than an element of myth, all coming together to make this ethereal French region both famous and fabulous in equal measure! Whether it be the unique geography, remarkable people, historical significance or just beautiful countryside, Champagne has that very French beguiling beauty in both look and product. So let's explore one of the most talked about regions and products which, in some ways is one of the less understood.

The Romans (as they did in many great regions of Europe) are credited with establishing the region for wine production, in the process digging into the soft chalk on which it is built, excavating many of the "caves" used to this day to age the famous sparkling wine. Historical sidenote, sparkling wine was initially an accidental outcome of cool weather affecting fermentation in this region and was originally thought to be of inferior quality to still wines. The widow Clicquot Ponsardin, (yes "Veuve" means widow) is credited with improving not only the method of production toward the fine styles we know today, but also in applying her marketing genius to change public perception of Champagne's sparkling wines. 

Being at the historical crossroads of many kingdoms and societies, this land has seen its fair share of battles from this time all the way through until the end of WW2. At the time of the Nazi invasion, many of the major Champagne houses managed to brick up and disguise large sections of those caves to hide their precious liquid treasure!

With its patchwork of vineyards and long term under vine, the production of Champagne is done at various levels. From single growers making their own in tiny quantities, through grower collectives pooling resources and engaging winemaking expertise to produce Champagne under their name. At the upper end the Champagne Houses we know on our market, showing there is a diversity that is generally not known unless you live in France itself. Champagne Houses are some of the most long-lived of businesses, each having its own distinct style, so let's examine three fabulous examples and their magnificent offerings, 

available for tasting on International Champagne Day, Friday 23 October at Inglewood and Noranda,  from 3:30pm for as long as the bottles last:

Laurent-Perrier: Established in 1812, this house was established by a barrel-maker who moved into the region and began producing Champagne in the ruins of an 11th Century abbey. At the end of his life, he sold the enterprise to his cellarmaster Eugene Laurent and his wife Mathilde-Emile Perrier, who ran the house together for a few years. When Laurent passed away, his wife took control and fused their names, creating the brand and pushing it forward into record-breaking production. 

After struggling through two World Wars & a worldwide depression, this iconic house has revitalised itself many times and recently developed the wonderfully appealing La Cuvee, fifteen years in development. This truly excellent Champagne demonstrates classic characters of peach, light citrus, real brioche (having spent an extended time on yeast lees) and a complexity which belies the cost. Esteemed wine writer, Huon Hooke put it this way "A superb wine, outstanding for such a large maker and for the 'workhorse' wine of such a big house. Very creamy. Hints of peach and toast. A lovely soft, rich, full-flavoured but also refined wine."

Champagne Bollinger: A relative youngster as a Champagne House, being family owned since 1829. The house style is powerful, sophisticated and complex with a feeling of "togetherness" in its complexity. This is the essence of the house of Bollinger, a survivor which, during the difficult first half of the 20th century, still gained great renown and extended its vineyards considerably. With its history of embracing modernisation, while respecting tradition, Bollinger is the perfect picture of beguiling Champagne.

A true classic, Bollinger Special Cuvee shows the possibilities and blending options of carefully constructed Non-Vintage Champagne. Cellar aged for more than twice the time required by the region's conventions, the result is a full, broader style with roasted apple, peach, cashew and light spice, wrapped up in soft bubbles and a velvety mouthfeel.

"What of the pink stuff?", you say. Well this magical region has you covered for that too!

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin: This is a Champagne house with a serious pedigree and legacy of can-do innovation. First established in 1772 by Philippe Clicquot, it is his son and most importantly, daughter-in-law who took the baton and ran with it, creating an icon of the region along the way. In 1818, Madame Clicquot along with her many other accomplishments, invented the first known blended RosΓ© Champagne, utilising a complex process involving blending still red wines, also made in the region, adding them to the sparkling white, then aging together. 

This process continues, having been refined to a fine art, to produce the lively but silky Veuve Clicquot RosΓ© we have today. A coppery-orange colour, this elegant rosΓ© has a fuller body with light fresh red fruit, buscuity/pastry characters and tones of dried stone fruits. For a fun food pairing, try it with crispy skin Chinese duck.

This all begs the question, "When is best to enjoy Champagne?",
so let us consult the experts:

This quote by one of the historical matriarchs of the region, Madame Lily Bollinger showed an outlook which not only reflected her joy of life, but utter immersion in the lifestyle and region she loved. A region where women have had significant historical impact.  

"I drink Champagne when I'm happy and when I'm sad. Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it - unless I'm thirsty."

… and from the endlessly quotable Winston Churchill:

"Remember gentlemen, it's not just France we're fighting for, it's Champagne!" (in a cabinet meeting during WW2), adding, "In success you deserve it, in defeat you need it." 

Who are we to argue? So, "Γ€ votre santΓ©"

Copyright © 2020 Devine Cellars, All rights reserved.

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